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Tips n Tricks
Here I give you loads of things about guitars and guitar playing that I've learnt over the years. Quickly scroll down the list, because there'll be some things here which you don't know and will save you time and perhaps money.
Be Mr Nice Guy
The guitar seems to be the most popular instrument, so there are thousands of excellent professional or semi-professional guitarists in the world. People have a huge choice when deciding who they want to jam or perform with. There are probably a few dozen or more in the area in which you live. If you are difficult to get on with, have poor time-keeping, are rude, opinionated, unkind, arrogant or inflexible; you won't find people who want to play with you. Or, if you do, it may not last long. Try to be the kind of person you yourself would like to work with. One thing I've learnt is to respect people's song choices. Band members are going to suggest some that you really don't want to play. Give them a go. Many's the time that I've learnt a number reluctantly, only to witness it go down a storm with an audience. If it's the vocalist's favourite, the chances are that they sing it well.
The guitar seems to be the most popular instrument, so there are thousands of excellent professional or semi-professional guitarists in the world. People have a huge choice when deciding who they want to jam or perform with. There are probably a few dozen or more in the area in which you live. If you are difficult to get on with, have poor time-keeping, are rude, opinionated, unkind, arrogant or inflexible; you won't find people who want to play with you. Or, if you do, it may not last long. Try to be the kind of person you yourself would like to work with. One thing I've learnt is to respect people's song choices. Band members are going to suggest some that you really don't want to play. Give them a go. Many's the time that I've learnt a number reluctantly, only to witness it go down a storm with an audience. If it's the vocalist's favourite, the chances are that they sing it well.
Buzzing, humming and other noise from amps
Many valve amps hum when they're switched on, but if it's loud, there may be a faulty earth or other fault. Get it checked out. If it is noisy when the guitar is plugged in, there may be an earth problem with the guitar. If the amp is turned right up you’ll get some noise which may reduce if you put your fretting hand on the strings. If you have the gain turned up (or overdrive channel selected, if there is one) turn if off – the noise should go. Also see (Controlling unwanted noise) below.
Many valve amps hum when they're switched on, but if it's loud, there may be a faulty earth or other fault. Get it checked out. If it is noisy when the guitar is plugged in, there may be an earth problem with the guitar. If the amp is turned right up you’ll get some noise which may reduce if you put your fretting hand on the strings. If you have the gain turned up (or overdrive channel selected, if there is one) turn if off – the noise should go. Also see (Controlling unwanted noise) below.
Budget versus expensive equipment
I’ve discussed this a bit in the section buying a guitar. You really can perform with inexpensive gear. A £200 second hand guitar and something like a Fender Blues deluxe (£300) or comparable valve amp would suit many styles of music (except classical!) Pedal wise, you can’t go wrong with Boss. And their ME 50 multi-effects pedal (discontinued but available on eBay) is astonishing good value. Don’t get into the trap of studying the internet too long for gear rather than practising. The latter is what is going to give you a good sound. Play with the settings on the amp – don’t just put them all halfway. Likewise with the guitar. Don’t leave the tone and volume on 10 – see what happens to the sound when you roll them off a bit.
I’ve discussed this a bit in the section buying a guitar. You really can perform with inexpensive gear. A £200 second hand guitar and something like a Fender Blues deluxe (£300) or comparable valve amp would suit many styles of music (except classical!) Pedal wise, you can’t go wrong with Boss. And their ME 50 multi-effects pedal (discontinued but available on eBay) is astonishing good value. Don’t get into the trap of studying the internet too long for gear rather than practising. The latter is what is going to give you a good sound. Play with the settings on the amp – don’t just put them all halfway. Likewise with the guitar. Don’t leave the tone and volume on 10 – see what happens to the sound when you roll them off a bit.
Crackling guitar knobs
They do wear out after years of use and you might start to hear crackling when turning the control knobs. When it first starts to happen, pull off the plastic knob and use some special spray for guitar electrics - I use Servisol 10, which is recommended by Terry of TJC Guitars, along with Deoxit D5. Careful – don’t overdo it. Similarly if it’s the pickup selector switch. If this doesn’t do it, they’re not expensive to replace and you could do it yourself, if you’re handy with a soldering iron.
They do wear out after years of use and you might start to hear crackling when turning the control knobs. When it first starts to happen, pull off the plastic knob and use some special spray for guitar electrics - I use Servisol 10, which is recommended by Terry of TJC Guitars, along with Deoxit D5. Careful – don’t overdo it. Similarly if it’s the pickup selector switch. If this doesn’t do it, they’re not expensive to replace and you could do it yourself, if you’re handy with a soldering iron.
Controlling unwanted noise
Unless you take steps to avoid it, you can get a load of unwanted noise from electric guitars. My first audition I didn’t get the job. I asked for feedback (no, not that kind) and they were kind enough to give some – that my guitar was noisy. It can easily happen all the time with single coil pick-ups, such as found on Teles and Strats, and is worse when you use gain, overdrive or distortion. When you’re not playing, have the noisy pedals switched off, the volume on your guitar turned down and your fretting hand on the strings.
There is also the matter of un-played strings ringing out and being amplified, cluttering the sound. If you are are beginner or come from a classical or acoustic background, you might need to develop this skill. The fingers of your fretting hand should lie across the thinner strings underneath the one(s) you’re playing. Your heel of your picking hand should lie over the un-played thicker strings. In effect, you’re using your two hands to touch the strings which aren’t being played.
Unless you take steps to avoid it, you can get a load of unwanted noise from electric guitars. My first audition I didn’t get the job. I asked for feedback (no, not that kind) and they were kind enough to give some – that my guitar was noisy. It can easily happen all the time with single coil pick-ups, such as found on Teles and Strats, and is worse when you use gain, overdrive or distortion. When you’re not playing, have the noisy pedals switched off, the volume on your guitar turned down and your fretting hand on the strings.
There is also the matter of un-played strings ringing out and being amplified, cluttering the sound. If you are are beginner or come from a classical or acoustic background, you might need to develop this skill. The fingers of your fretting hand should lie across the thinner strings underneath the one(s) you’re playing. Your heel of your picking hand should lie over the un-played thicker strings. In effect, you’re using your two hands to touch the strings which aren’t being played.
Feedback
This is where the sound made by the performer gets into the mic and is then amplified again and again until you hear that howling sound we all dread. Practice in the correct formation from time to time – PA speakers at the front, then singer(s) and musicians behind them with amps facing forwards. You might have to play around with the placing, but this is better worked out before the performance. Guitar feed back is something else and is worse with hollow-bodied or semi-acoustic guitars. You can get foam sound-hole fillers for acoustic guitars. Even solid body electric gutiars feed-back, but usually you can just slightly change where you’re standing or the direction your facing. Then again, you might want it. It’s a great effect when controlled properly. You’ll get to know where to stand so that you get feedback. You then back off the volume until you can just about hear it, than roll it back on again when you want it. Go on. You know you want to!
This is where the sound made by the performer gets into the mic and is then amplified again and again until you hear that howling sound we all dread. Practice in the correct formation from time to time – PA speakers at the front, then singer(s) and musicians behind them with amps facing forwards. You might have to play around with the placing, but this is better worked out before the performance. Guitar feed back is something else and is worse with hollow-bodied or semi-acoustic guitars. You can get foam sound-hole fillers for acoustic guitars. Even solid body electric gutiars feed-back, but usually you can just slightly change where you’re standing or the direction your facing. Then again, you might want it. It’s a great effect when controlled properly. You’ll get to know where to stand so that you get feedback. You then back off the volume until you can just about hear it, than roll it back on again when you want it. Go on. You know you want to!
Leads and cables
Make sure you by guitar leads. They are screened, which reduces interference. They a pretty inexpensive considering they last for many years, if cared for. Get the right length. The longer they are, the more high-end you lose from the tone. Standard lengths won’t give you a problem. I don’t like to recommend brands, but try out the Planet Waves in the shop, along with others about the same price. I would pay not less than £10 and probably a maximum of £20-25. You want them to last. Lengthwise, it really depends. You don’t want cable in your way, but neither do you want your movement restricted. I use two: one from me to the pedal board, one from the pedal board to the amp. I usually take a couple of spares, different lengths. One tip: if they don’t have something to hold the coils when they are stored (a loop or Velcro strap) buy or make something. There’s nothing worse than a tangle of leads.
Make sure you by guitar leads. They are screened, which reduces interference. They a pretty inexpensive considering they last for many years, if cared for. Get the right length. The longer they are, the more high-end you lose from the tone. Standard lengths won’t give you a problem. I don’t like to recommend brands, but try out the Planet Waves in the shop, along with others about the same price. I would pay not less than £10 and probably a maximum of £20-25. You want them to last. Lengthwise, it really depends. You don’t want cable in your way, but neither do you want your movement restricted. I use two: one from me to the pedal board, one from the pedal board to the amp. I usually take a couple of spares, different lengths. One tip: if they don’t have something to hold the coils when they are stored (a loop or Velcro strap) buy or make something. There’s nothing worse than a tangle of leads.
Lead tuck
You will see, when guitarists perform standing up, that they pass the lead between the strap and the guitar body, before plugging into the guitar. The weight of the guitar will then trap the lead, so that if you stand on it and then move, the jack won't come unplugged. Could you imagine that happening in a performance?
You will see, when guitarists perform standing up, that they pass the lead between the strap and the guitar body, before plugging into the guitar. The weight of the guitar will then trap the lead, so that if you stand on it and then move, the jack won't come unplugged. Could you imagine that happening in a performance?
Misaligned guitar necks
I got an amazing used Eric Clapton signature Strat for not too much money, because it had some chips in the paint. I don’t mind that – it has a few more now! When I got it home I realised that the thin E string was rather close to the edge of the fretboard. I don’t know why I hadn’t noticed in the shop, but anyway, I Googled the issue and this was the answer: With the neck still under tension (don’t loosen the strings) loosen the neck very slightly. There are four (sometimes three) screws holding it it on, and you loosen them only about a quarter to half a turn. I heard a ‘bang’ as the neck was pulled into place by the strings. Tightened up the screws again and everything sorted. It was like magic. Amazing! If there really is a problem with the neck, this won’t cure it, but it’s worth a try.
I got an amazing used Eric Clapton signature Strat for not too much money, because it had some chips in the paint. I don’t mind that – it has a few more now! When I got it home I realised that the thin E string was rather close to the edge of the fretboard. I don’t know why I hadn’t noticed in the shop, but anyway, I Googled the issue and this was the answer: With the neck still under tension (don’t loosen the strings) loosen the neck very slightly. There are four (sometimes three) screws holding it it on, and you loosen them only about a quarter to half a turn. I heard a ‘bang’ as the neck was pulled into place by the strings. Tightened up the screws again and everything sorted. It was like magic. Amazing! If there really is a problem with the neck, this won’t cure it, but it’s worth a try.
Monitors
You see these large wedge shaped speakers on the front of the stage at large concerts and show. It’s the way you hear a balanced sound. If you’re in a band and you don’t use monitoring, you may not hear the singer. These can be small versions that attach to your mic stand, larger wedges or IEMs (in-ear-monitors).
You see these large wedge shaped speakers on the front of the stage at large concerts and show. It’s the way you hear a balanced sound. If you’re in a band and you don’t use monitoring, you may not hear the singer. These can be small versions that attach to your mic stand, larger wedges or IEMs (in-ear-monitors).
Parts of the guitar
Speed - Playing fast
You may not want to be a ‘shredder’, but you will need to have your technique up to the required level for the material you want to play. It’s easier if you’re starting young, but can be achieved with many hours of practice with a metronome. There are endless lessons on YouTube. Personally, I would ensure that you firstly work on building up the speed in the licks you want to incorporate into your songs. If you have time, then also do the exercises these on-line teachers suggest. One of the best known teachers in this area is Martin Goulding.
You may not want to be a ‘shredder’, but you will need to have your technique up to the required level for the material you want to play. It’s easier if you’re starting young, but can be achieved with many hours of practice with a metronome. There are endless lessons on YouTube. Personally, I would ensure that you firstly work on building up the speed in the licks you want to incorporate into your songs. If you have time, then also do the exercises these on-line teachers suggest. One of the best known teachers in this area is Martin Goulding.
Standing-up playing
If you want to play in a band, you need to do at least some of your practising standing up. It feels quite different from playing sitting down. This, along with the possible need to dance – or at least look like you’re enjoying the performance - and dark stages makes the whole experience much more difficult than you might be used to in your bedroom or studio.
If you want to play in a band, you need to do at least some of your practising standing up. It feels quite different from playing sitting down. This, along with the possible need to dance – or at least look like you’re enjoying the performance - and dark stages makes the whole experience much more difficult than you might be used to in your bedroom or studio.
Stands for guitars
Yes - get one. Two really good reasons: you will play more than if your guitar were stored away in it's case or gig bag. Secondly, you'll protect it from falling over. A tip: if you don't have a stand handy, lean the guitar against something soft, if possible, or the amp, with the strings inwards. It won't slide and fall as easily this way round.
Yes - get one. Two really good reasons: you will play more than if your guitar were stored away in it's case or gig bag. Secondly, you'll protect it from falling over. A tip: if you don't have a stand handy, lean the guitar against something soft, if possible, or the amp, with the strings inwards. It won't slide and fall as easily this way round.
Sound limiters
A nightmare! Fitted where there are noise issues in a venue or people living close by. Some are actually set so that the noise of a band will always set them off. They should be properly calibrated (although often aren’t) so that they are set off by the frequencies which cause disturbance – bass guitar or bass drum. The loud noise of a snare or electric guitar doesn’t actually carry very far.
A nightmare! Fitted where there are noise issues in a venue or people living close by. Some are actually set so that the noise of a band will always set them off. They should be properly calibrated (although often aren’t) so that they are set off by the frequencies which cause disturbance – bass guitar or bass drum. The loud noise of a snare or electric guitar doesn’t actually carry very far.
Spares at gigs
Well, I’m quite extreme: I always take two guitars, two amps, two mics, spare leads, straps, strings, picks…. I was in a band where the singer played guitar as well. He broke a string and didn’t even have a spare string, let alone a spare guitar. There is an expression - business continuity: as far as practicable, try to ensure that the show still goes on whatever happens. Recently the other guitarist and me in a band both forgot our IEMs. We have spares with the PA. Be prepared.
Well, I’m quite extreme: I always take two guitars, two amps, two mics, spare leads, straps, strings, picks…. I was in a band where the singer played guitar as well. He broke a string and didn’t even have a spare string, let alone a spare guitar. There is an expression - business continuity: as far as practicable, try to ensure that the show still goes on whatever happens. Recently the other guitarist and me in a band both forgot our IEMs. We have spares with the PA. Be prepared.
Strings
Yep. Gotta have these! Many different types and gauges. Some specialised - like flat-wound for jazz; nylon for classical. Some treated - like the coated, expensive Elixir ones. Brand-wise, you can't go wrong with Rotosound (made in England), Ernie Ball or D'addario. I used to use DRs, which I bought in bulk. I had a load that were rusty and DR didn't want to know.
They come in different gauges, denoted by the diameter of the thinnest string; so 9s, super light; 10s, light; 11s, medium..... You can also get mixed packs with heavier bass strings. There is much debate about brands and gauges. In the 1970s, people went for 9s, or even 8s, because they're easier to bend. If you're starting out, use 9s - they're much more forgiving.
Strings can last a long time. I wipe them down after almost every use using a product called Fast Fret. Not because its good - it's convenient. You can replenish it with WD-40 when it starts to dry out. I'll ensure that when I gig the strings are new, or only a day or two old, so they're less likely to break Older strings sound duller. Change them when you hear this, or when they start to look old. Run your finger nail along the strings to feel whether they're damaged. Some people say that their skin is more acid, which rusts the strings. We're all different. If you need a rough guide, I would say change them after 100 hours playing or before a gig. This really is something you should be able to do yourself. You can pay a shop, but if you break one, you're out of action until you can get to the shop again.
Always have spares, and cutters!
Yep. Gotta have these! Many different types and gauges. Some specialised - like flat-wound for jazz; nylon for classical. Some treated - like the coated, expensive Elixir ones. Brand-wise, you can't go wrong with Rotosound (made in England), Ernie Ball or D'addario. I used to use DRs, which I bought in bulk. I had a load that were rusty and DR didn't want to know.
They come in different gauges, denoted by the diameter of the thinnest string; so 9s, super light; 10s, light; 11s, medium..... You can also get mixed packs with heavier bass strings. There is much debate about brands and gauges. In the 1970s, people went for 9s, or even 8s, because they're easier to bend. If you're starting out, use 9s - they're much more forgiving.
Strings can last a long time. I wipe them down after almost every use using a product called Fast Fret. Not because its good - it's convenient. You can replenish it with WD-40 when it starts to dry out. I'll ensure that when I gig the strings are new, or only a day or two old, so they're less likely to break Older strings sound duller. Change them when you hear this, or when they start to look old. Run your finger nail along the strings to feel whether they're damaged. Some people say that their skin is more acid, which rusts the strings. We're all different. If you need a rough guide, I would say change them after 100 hours playing or before a gig. This really is something you should be able to do yourself. You can pay a shop, but if you break one, you're out of action until you can get to the shop again.
Always have spares, and cutters!
Strings - breaking
Generally caused by one of two things: old and damaged strings or damage to a part of the guitar over which the string passes. Strings get old, so replace them regularly. I started to go through a phase of breaking the thinnest E string at rehearsals. It was because I was using alternate tunings, which causes metal fatigue as the strings are being stretched and loosened continually. It didn't happen at gigs, because I used new strings. The guitar can get rough or sharp spots on the frets, bridge saddles or underneath the string tree; so if a string breaks, pick up the parts to see where it broke, then examine that part for damage.
Generally caused by one of two things: old and damaged strings or damage to a part of the guitar over which the string passes. Strings get old, so replace them regularly. I started to go through a phase of breaking the thinnest E string at rehearsals. It was because I was using alternate tunings, which causes metal fatigue as the strings are being stretched and loosened continually. It didn't happen at gigs, because I used new strings. The guitar can get rough or sharp spots on the frets, bridge saddles or underneath the string tree; so if a string breaks, pick up the parts to see where it broke, then examine that part for damage.
Strings - buzzing or fretting out whilst bending
The guitar requires setting up. If you’ve already got it, I would try to do a set-up yourself if you can. If you’ve never done it before, take extreme care. You can do permanent damage. Perhaps take it to a luthier? Some things are very easy to sort yourself and you can find tutorials on YouTube. If it’s a new guitar, take it or send it back and get it sorted. Otherwise, look at the frets. Are they worn? i.e can you see flat-spots or areas where they’re been worn by the strings? If so, I would take it to a luthier and get them to do a fret dress and set-up. It’ll play like a dream afterwards. I do my own set-ups, but not fret work or cutting the nut-slots.
The guitar requires setting up. If you’ve already got it, I would try to do a set-up yourself if you can. If you’ve never done it before, take extreme care. You can do permanent damage. Perhaps take it to a luthier? Some things are very easy to sort yourself and you can find tutorials on YouTube. If it’s a new guitar, take it or send it back and get it sorted. Otherwise, look at the frets. Are they worn? i.e can you see flat-spots or areas where they’re been worn by the strings? If so, I would take it to a luthier and get them to do a fret dress and set-up. It’ll play like a dream afterwards. I do my own set-ups, but not fret work or cutting the nut-slots.
Strings - changing
There are different methods: some depend on the type of machine heads and/or the type of bridge. Loads of stuff on the net and videos on You Tube, some purporting that their method really is the best. I really like this one for ease and speed, and the fact that the old strings are easy to remove. If you already have a method you like and the strings don't slip or break at the machine heads, then that's good. Here's how I change mine:
There are different methods: some depend on the type of machine heads and/or the type of bridge. Loads of stuff on the net and videos on You Tube, some purporting that their method really is the best. I really like this one for ease and speed, and the fact that the old strings are easy to remove. If you already have a method you like and the strings don't slip or break at the machine heads, then that's good. Here's how I change mine:
- If you have a rosewood fretboard, wipe it with a damp cloth, which will help to prevent it drying out. The strings won't rust as you're changing them anyway.
- Change the strings one at a time, rather than taking them all off at once - particularly if you have a floating trem. This way it's easier to roughly tune the new string to the old one.
- When you take the old string off, gently smooth the metal bridge saddle with very fine emery or wet and dry paper. Less chance of the string wearing and breaking here.
- Rub a soft leaded pencil across the nut slots. so that the lead dust gets into the slot and acts as a lubricant. Or use vaseline or 'nut sauce'. Put a dot on the bridge saddle as well.
- Tune the string, stretch it by bending up a tone or two, then re-tune. You'll need to do this two or three times. If you don't stretch the string, the guitar's going to keep going out of tune until the strings settle down. Don't over stretch them - you'll weaken them. Anything that you might do whilst playing is enough.
- Finally tune the guitar and wipe the strings down or your finger tips will go black. They're coated for protection,
Tab
Tablature (or tabulature, or tab for short) is a form of musical notation indicating instrument fingering rather than musical pitches. To read the tab, each string is shown visually as you would see it looking down as you play. So, the first chord, D, is shown fingering the first string at the fifth fret, the second at the seventh and so on.
Tablature (or tabulature, or tab for short) is a form of musical notation indicating instrument fingering rather than musical pitches. To read the tab, each string is shown visually as you would see it looking down as you play. So, the first chord, D, is shown fingering the first string at the fifth fret, the second at the seventh and so on.
Transcribing
A tremendous way of developing your ear when you work out songs. It means writing out the music. The way you do this rather depends on whether you want it just for your own use or for the band. An awesome piece of software which I’ve used for many years is called Transcribe. It’s only around £30 for life. It allows you to slow-down music, without it changing pitch, alter the EQ, so that you can hear some parts more easily, and change the key – among many other things. I really, really recommend using this.
Once you've written out the songs, save them to a pdf and use an app to store them on your phone or tablet. I use On Song, although there are loads to choose from.
A tremendous way of developing your ear when you work out songs. It means writing out the music. The way you do this rather depends on whether you want it just for your own use or for the band. An awesome piece of software which I’ve used for many years is called Transcribe. It’s only around £30 for life. It allows you to slow-down music, without it changing pitch, alter the EQ, so that you can hear some parts more easily, and change the key – among many other things. I really, really recommend using this.
Once you've written out the songs, save them to a pdf and use an app to store them on your phone or tablet. I use On Song, although there are loads to choose from.
Tremolo Systems
These are the devices you see most famously, but not exclusively, on Stratocaster style guitars. Also known as 'whammy-bars'. They were made famous in the early days by the Shadows. They stretch and slacken the strings, resulting in vibrato and take a level of skill to use well. At one end of the spectrum we have the unbelievably heightened level of virtuosity displayed by Jeff Beck, at the other we have Eric Clapton, who has his blocked off completely, since he doesn't use it! (I'm a huge fan of both, BTW...) They take a little effort to learn how to set them up to get the correct balance between the strings being played and the springs at the rear of the guitar. There are a number of tutorials on YouTube describing how do do this, the best being by Frudua TV.
If you want to use the 'Trem' for it's intended use, I can give a couple of tips:
1. If you want the trem arm to stay in place and not swing loosely, just buy the correct spring, which goes in the hole where the trem-arm screws in. I'm not going to put a link, because they sell out. Google 'Fender Trem-arm spring Product Ref: 34839'. There are so many tutorials on alternatives, but this works perfectly - why would you use anything else? They should come with the guitar, but sometimes fall out.
2. When you play and use the trem, you may find that it helps to finish your phrase by (silently) depressing the trem arm towards the body of the guitar, then releasing. This should ensure that the strings return to pitch.
3. Once the trem system is set-up correctly, you'll still need to do some extra maintenance, which can be done when you change strings. To avoid areas of friction where the strings can get caught, put some lubricant on the areas over which the strings pass: The nut-slots and the bridge saddles. There are products you can buy, but a tiny blob of petroleum jelly works fine.
In my experience, there is a trade-off and you might not want any of the issues you can get with these systems. You may want to block the trem completely, if you're not going to use it. Many guitarists do that. You can screw in the claw screws or insert a small piece of wood inside the rear tremolo cavity (as done by Eric Clapton), which will hold the base-plate against the guitar body.
Tuners
I mean gadgets to assist in tuning guitars, not the actual mechanisms on the guitar - which are actually called machine heads or tuning pegs. (When I first started learning... no, I'm not going there again!) You can get the ones that you plug into the guitar with the lead, or a separate short lead. They also work without being plugged in, although they work better with acoustic guitars this way. I have a Korg one I've had for fifteen years. Superb little thing, and it's pretty accurate, compared with the super expensive Pederson one I have on my pedal board. Nowadays, people seem to like the ones which clip onto the guitar headstock. I know so many people who've had them fall off and lose them. I wonder where they all are? I recently bought one for convenience. I lost it.
I mean gadgets to assist in tuning guitars, not the actual mechanisms on the guitar - which are actually called machine heads or tuning pegs. (When I first started learning... no, I'm not going there again!) You can get the ones that you plug into the guitar with the lead, or a separate short lead. They also work without being plugged in, although they work better with acoustic guitars this way. I have a Korg one I've had for fifteen years. Superb little thing, and it's pretty accurate, compared with the super expensive Pederson one I have on my pedal board. Nowadays, people seem to like the ones which clip onto the guitar headstock. I know so many people who've had them fall off and lose them. I wonder where they all are? I recently bought one for convenience. I lost it.
Tuning problems
Nowadays, even budget guitars are extraordinarily good compared to how they used to be over forty years ago. If your guitar won’t stay in tune, there are things you can try, before you go to a luthier. Make sure that you wrap the string around the strings posts about three or four times. Lubricate the parts where the string passes; so the bridge, the nut-slots and under the string tree, if there is one. Use a soft leaded pencil or Vaseline. There is a product called Nut-Sauce, which is like Vaseline in a small syringe. A give-away noise is if you hear a ‘click’ or 'ping' when you are tuning. This can be the string binding and then releasing in the nut slot. Although you could attempt to file it yourself, I wouldn’t. Take the guitar to be properly set-up by a luthier.
Nowadays, even budget guitars are extraordinarily good compared to how they used to be over forty years ago. If your guitar won’t stay in tune, there are things you can try, before you go to a luthier. Make sure that you wrap the string around the strings posts about three or four times. Lubricate the parts where the string passes; so the bridge, the nut-slots and under the string tree, if there is one. Use a soft leaded pencil or Vaseline. There is a product called Nut-Sauce, which is like Vaseline in a small syringe. A give-away noise is if you hear a ‘click’ or 'ping' when you are tuning. This can be the string binding and then releasing in the nut slot. Although you could attempt to file it yourself, I wouldn’t. Take the guitar to be properly set-up by a luthier.
Who owns what in the band?
The problem with the band owning equipment between them, is what happens if someone leaves or the band splits up? If you return the leaver’s share, are you going to ask a new band-mate to buy it back? The best plan is the one which works for you - just have one! I personally favour each owning the equipment they need. Ideally one person would own the shared equipment, such as PA and lighting. Easier if there’s a singer who doesn’t play an instrument, the PA is their instrument, after all! Why should the musicians need a car or van to transport their gear and the singer turn up with just one microphone in her (or his!) hand-bag?!
The problem with the band owning equipment between them, is what happens if someone leaves or the band splits up? If you return the leaver’s share, are you going to ask a new band-mate to buy it back? The best plan is the one which works for you - just have one! I personally favour each owning the equipment they need. Ideally one person would own the shared equipment, such as PA and lighting. Easier if there’s a singer who doesn’t play an instrument, the PA is their instrument, after all! Why should the musicians need a car or van to transport their gear and the singer turn up with just one microphone in her (or his!) hand-bag?!
Hertfordshire
UK
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